SHOWING BREEDING IN-HAND CLASSES THE AHFA WAY

Arabian Horse Fair Association enjoyed the article written by Dimitri Delgado so much we asked for permission from the board where he posted his articles on training and tips, Arabian Breeders Network, and from Mr. Delgado for his permission. Here is a short "bio" about Dimitri.

Dimitri Delgado is an active duty anti-terrorism SWAT Officer in the United States Coast Guard and an avid Arabian fan.  His first Arabian, TF SIR PRIZE (Noble Prize++ X Premonishahn), is a 2003 stallion that he purchased as a yearling.  TF SIR PRIZE has gone on to win a Region 16 Reserve Championship as a yearling, East Coast Reserve Champion Stallion as a 2 Year Old, and is a three (3) time Scottsdale Top Ten Stallion.  In addition, TF SIR PRIZE holds multiple class (A) championships and is now competing as a western pleasure horse.  Delgado Prized Arabians (DPA) also owns, LUMENA ELLAS (Lumiar Amadeus X Poetic Psyche) and together they have enjoyed NorCal Championships and a Scottsdale Top Ten.  DPA’s first foal, SIRPREMACY DP (TF Sir Prize X Cicadia by Monogramm) garnered a Scottsdale Top Ten at his first show as a yearling and is the initial product of the AMMY ARMY method.

Dimitri has had the good fortune of learning the art of halter training from some of the industries best.  Steve Heathcott, Rich Simpkins, and Ricardo Rivero (Midwest) have all impacted his style, philosophy and approach.  As he puts it...”I have learned a lot from gentlemen like them.  I have taken what I liked, left what I did not, and added a couple of my personal beliefs and techniques into the training program.  It is 7 easy steps to a happy halter horse.  At Scottsdale, this year, I showed our yearling colt in the Open.  Many people indicated afterwards, that if the faces of the handlers had been hidden, it would have been impossible to pick out the amateur.  I think we are on to something”.

In November of 2007, Dimitri, at the urging of many friends, started the AMMY ARMY method on the Arabian Breeders Network.  His desire to offer no cost, common sense, halter training came from a great desire to have a positive impact on the Arabian horse industry and the horses themselves.  “The Arabian breed is in trouble in the U.S.  I hear talk about having to find “new” people in order to boost the breed.  While that may be true, I decided to assist the 80% of Arabian owners who are not showing.  We don’t have to sell the breed to those people.  We simply have to sell them on the show ring.  Convince them that it is doable regardless of their perceived status in the industry.  Convince them that it does not have to be cost prohibitive to show their horses.  Convince them that the show will be transparent and fair.  Do that, and the ring will be flooded with wonderful Arabian horses and their owners."

There are certainly a number of reasons that people do not show their horses and while I acknowledge that I can not solve all of those challenges, I can certainly help with a couple of them.  Too costly to put your horse in training?  Train it yourself.  Don’t know how?  Let the AMMY ARMY method help.  It is a common sense approach to training the halter horse with patience, love, and a soft touch.  It is COMPLETELY about viewing “halter” as a performance class and TRAINING your horse to do it, without intimidation or fear.  SIRPREMACY DP is a home bred, home trained, and home shown product of the AMMY ARMY method and its techniques.  His recent Scottsdale Top Ten validated our approach.  The response has been humbling and the support that the members extend to each other is nothing short of wonderful.   Join us.  THE AMMY ARMY…INVADING A SHOW RING NEAR YOU!!!”

INTRODUCTION

Keeping with the military theme I would like to propose a set of GENERAL ORDERS, known as GOs. Every army needs regulations to keep it together and help everyone thrive.

GO #1 - RESPECT IS MANDATORY:  

Let's not bad mouth anyone, not even trainers or anyone else connected with showing/breeding/whatever. If we reduce ourselves to that then we all need to quit and do something else.

GO #2 - FUN IS MANDATORY:

In the absence of fun, what is the point?

GO #3 - HALTER IS A NON-CONTACT SPORT:

I think horses are like women in this sense...They are incapable of doing anything that would justify hitting them. Now, they certainly will test you, they will irritate you and they will frustrate you, but nothing they do will every justify hitting them. If you have to twist a lip of a nibbler go for it. That is not what I am talking about....I am talking about striking an animal.

GO #4 - THE WHIP IS A TOOL NOT A WEAPON:

Eventually we are going to present a whip to our friends. We are going to use it to steer them and get their attention but never as a weapon to strike them. If you believe in whipping the animal refer to GO #3.

GO #5  - WAX ON, WAX OFF:

Like the movie we are going to be doing things that have a purpose even if we don't see it at the time. Like building a house you need a solid foundation. The WHOA that we are working on now is the foundation for everything else we are going to do. There is no point to taking the wax off (moving to the next step) before you get the wax on. If that means you have to "back up" to enforce the foundation, that is what you HAVE to do. Don't be in a hurry. Everything we do will make sense when the whole package is put together.

GO #6 - THE ENEMY GET'S NO VOTE:

For this one, the enemy is anyone that tells you that you CAN'T do something. I have found that when someone tells someone else that they can't do something they are typically speaking about themselves. Make sense? YOU define your goals and success, don't let the enemy sound off.

GO #7 - WE OWN THE WORLD:

I have heard that over 90% of Arabian owners do not show their horses. The reasons they don't show are varied but that is why we are doing this....to encourage them to get out there. People are going to say that we can't go into the main ring and beat the big name trainer’s....refer to GO #6

Good thing General Washington did not believe that about the British, huh? That may be true today but we get to dictate what happens tomorrow. If we flood the ring I will bet my bottom dollar that some of us are going to finish in the ribbons. Big Name Trainer's have the advantage of political clout and name recognition but we are NOT without advantages. We don't have to train 20+ horses so we get to build a relationship with our partner and we outnumber them.

GO #8 - THE GATE IS HARMLESS:

When you and your friend show you are paying for the opinion of three people on a specific day, their opinion that day may be that you deserve nothing. NEWS FLASH...you WILL survive!

I can't promise that the sun will come up tomorrow but I can promise that you will survive the gate. I truly believe that when a specific horse dies and the owner adds up the wins and the losses the total will be zero. It all balances out. Besides, if you are showing for yourself, your family, the crowd and to have fun with your friend who cares about the gate. Everybody that shows, even the Champion, has to use the gate to get out of the ring. When I showed my horse at the AHA US Nationals as a Futurity Colt he finished 11th mathematically. People were asking me if I was ok. Well, I was a bit disappointed at first until I thought about the fact that there were 29 horses in the class which meant that 18 other families were equally disappointed because their horse did not garner a Top Ten. That realization got me over it very quickly. And you know what......I survived.

When you compete at anything you run the risk of winning or losing. You can't control that...you CAN control your effort and attitude though. Stay positive.

GO #9 - WE ONLY OWN ONE THING:

Many of us go through life thinking we own a ton of things....Our horses, our homes, our cars, our clothes, etc.....Bad news.....we own none of those things. We can lose any of those things at a moment’s notice. They can die, they can be taken away by the bank, they can be stolen....There is only ONE thing we own that Can’t be taken away from us.....OUR HONOR....No one can take it away from you. It is the one thing you have to GIVE away and once you do you are bankrupt. You forfeit your honor when you cheat or cut corners. Work hard, leave the ginger at home, and let the cards fall where they may....Even if you get the gate you won't be bankrupt.

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TRAINING FOR BREEDING CLASSES IN-HAND

LESSON ONE: I'm your friend and will keep you from harm.

All I want you to do is take your friend for a walk. Take him/her through "scary" things...puddles, waving tarps, bridges, gullies, etc......This is the time when they are going to learn that they can trust you and you will not get them hurt. When the Main Ring gets scary they are going to focus on you, their protector. It will pay off. While out on a stroll, stay at their shoulder and ask them to whoa. Raise both hands when you ask them to whoa. At the beginning we are just looking for a couple of moments of NO MOVEMENT. If they move, we are going to yell "ACK" and make them move away. start walking again and repeat the process. When they stand still for a few moments go give them some love. They will quickly get the point that "if I stand still, they won't yell that scary ACK sound and they give me hugs and kisses...I like that, I think I will repeat that and stand still until they come hug me no matter how long that takes"

Do not worry about foot position, body position etc.....Do not over react to anything they do wrong. They are not trying to be difficult. They simply don't yet understand what you want. THEY WILL with all those hugs though. Make a BIG deal out of their success, but NO TREATS!!! Only hugs and kisses.

Do this for a few days and soon when you say WHOA they will freeze in place. Once we get that down we will get into lesson two.

GO HAVE FUN with your friend.

Oh I forgot...ONLY A BARN HALTER....no schooling halters, no chains, no whips, and certainly NO shanks. This is TRUST time.

TALK TO YOUR FRIEND. Let him/her hear about your goals for the both of you. Also start teaching them sound signals. When you go for a walk, don't just push the lead forward. Cluck to get them to walk...it will come in handy later...trust me. So, today's addendum to lesson one...always talk and always cluck. And don't ever forget....your equine friend is ALWAYS learning. Sometimes they are learning bad things and sometimes they are learning good ones, but they are always learning. Don't ever put them back in the stall on a bad note. Get a victory before you put them away. And always consider it a training session any time you put hands on them.

When you raise your hands during the Whoa, don't lift them all the way up. Just raise them enough that it becomes a physical cue for the horse. If you lift them too high and actually lift the horses head you are going to force them to roll their eyes back (So they can see you) and it will show too much white. So, easy does it. Stay on their shoulder, say whoa while raising your hands enough that they associate the word "whoa" with a physical cue, yell ACK if they budge, praise, repeat. Make it fun for them. If they do it right, hug them, and perhaps let them graze for a moment or two before you begin again.

At this point you are seeking "longer" whoa. Time them....that is where your victories will come from during this stage.

We all love the most intelligent breed there is and with that come some challenges. As a smart animal, your horse is going to have good days and bad ones. They will in fact, get up on the wrong side of the stall sometimes. It really does not matter if the horse is in halter or performance training, they WILL have bad days. Please respect that and don't push things. Now, just because they are having a bad day does not mean they get to dictate whether or not they work and do what is asked of them. It just means give them their space AFTER you get a win. If you notice that they are just "not into it" today, no worries. Keep the session brief, pay close attention to a "win" and when they do something, ANYTHING, correctly, give them hugs, kisses and their space. Put them away, but only after they pay. Remember, they are ALWAYS learning. If you don't get something out of them and just give up, they are going to learn that they REALLY don't have to do anything if they don't want too. Let's not teach them that...things will get tough later. So, on those days that they are a bit "off", keep it simple, keep it brief, and keep it positive.


LESSON ONE: I'm your friend and will keep you from harm.
#1 At the walk. (hands down and relaxed)
#2 Whoa (hands come up) Facing the horse so that they look to you for direction.
#3 Continue saying whoa and practice until they are standing still longer, and longer
#4 Praise.

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LESSON TWO : LET'S DANCE (BUT I GET TO LEAD)

How long you should work at each step? . . .Well, that really depends on the horse and there is no fast answer to that. What is important is that you establish the foundation before moving on to any other steps. Remember, wax on/wax off.

All of the steps are building upon each other and will eventually complete your presentation. This is not a race. . . .don't move on to the next step until you have the previous one DOWN PAT. Also, if you feel like it is time to move on to the next step and then the first lesson starts to fall apart (it can happen) just go back to the beginning and re-establish the foundation.

I have called lesson 2 (LET'S DANCE) because once you have gotten a solid whoa into your partner it is time to get out in front of them and dance. I call it a dance because if done well, you and your partner will actually look as if you are dancing with each other. However, YOU are always in the lead. Your partner is to respond to your moves and your cues, not anticipate the next move or get ahead of you. Presenting a horse is a "by the numbers" evolution but it is some of the best fun you will ever have with clothes on.

Before we get in front of the horse I want to talk about YOU. Your partner is going to be reading everything about you. Your body language, your tone, and your attitude, so it is crucial that you are aware of how you are presenting YOURSELF. Trust me, you are going to have a desire during future lessons to look at the placement of their feet. I am going to ask you to start practicing standing tall. If you have to look down, do it with your eyes not your entire head and body. If you begin to "stoop" your partner is going to start following you with their heads and Arabians are not supposed to stand with their heads down. Also, pay attention to the tone of your voice. STAY POSITIVE. The ACK that we talked about earlier does not have to be a YELL. It is just a startling sound that reminds them to stay focused, nothing more. Watch your facial expressions. These amazing animals can read us like books. In a bad mood? They know it and will react to it. Scared? They can read that and will react to it. Can you imagine how scary it will be for them if their "protector" is scared as well? Therefore, keep a positive attitude, positive facial expression (go ahead and smile, it won't kill you), and don't forget to breath and relax. Your partner needs that.

Ok, time to get out front............First thing I would like to encourage you to do is stay at the END of the lead. Too many ammy's get right up against the horses nose and it really crowds the dance floor. You will never see a Big Name Trainer up close. They might be 1/2 way down the lead but never up close. I am going to ask you to start at the end of the lead so that you have room to "draw closer" if you need to during the presentation. Second thing. . . .The space between the end of the lead and your horse's nose is "NO MAN/NO HORSE LAND". Neither of you are going to infringe on that space. The horse has its space and you have yours. The dance will take place on the outsides of that space. So, when you are going to depart his/her shoulder and get out front you are not going to walk straight out. . . .you are going to ARCH your way to the end of the lead. Below are pictures to illustrate but I will try to describe it here as well. You are standing at the horse's left shoulder. You say "whoa" and raise your hands (not too high) and the both of you come to a solid stop. Now pay out the lead until you are holding the end of it in whatever hand you decide to use for a lead hand. Step to your left while giving your horse a reminder "whoa". Now follow an ARCHING pattern out to the end of the lead and in front of the horse. Make sense?

Don't get shy with the "whoa". There is nothing wrong with repeating it in order to keep them still. If they move at all during your ARCH to the front. . .give them and ACK, and begin again from the shoulder. Now here is a little tool that can help. . . . it is called a "BUMP". If, while you are arching out to the front, you sense that they are about to move, give a quick, firm pull DOWN on the lead. That is called a BUMP. It will bring the halter down on their nose and physically force them to stop moving. In the show ring the bump is going to be necessary because you can't just stop and go back to the shoulder, however, for training purposes, please go back to the shoulder and start again. They have to learn that once you say WHOA they are not to move until you ask them too. Once you are out at the end of the lead, repeat WHOA (while raising your hands). We want them to learn that while we have our hands down they will be asked to move, but when they are up they are to FREEZE. During this stage we are seeking no movement just like in Lesson 1, just from a different point of view. Get out front, get them to stand still, ACK if necessary, and build slowly. Keep working with this and the time they are able to stand still will grow and grow. Like in our first lesson, our victory is coming by building a longer and longer whoa.

In later lessons you are going to walk with your horse while facing them from the end of the lead. Sometimes you will be walking backwards and they will follow and sometimes you will approach them and they will retreat. It is going to be a fun dance. But if you can picture it in your mind, neither of you will cross into NO MAN'S/NO HORSE land (the space between your hand and their nose).

So, continue taking your partner for walks and work on the the whoa from the shoulder. Once you have them freezing for a good 20-30 seconds (don't worry, you won't need that long during a show, except in the middle of the ring), begin to move out front. Get the end of the lead in whichever hand you choose to hold the lead in (it really does not matter, whatever makes you more comfortable), take a step to "open" the distance between you and them, and then ARCH your way out right in front of them. STAY at the end of the lead. If they even think about moving, ACK them. If they stay still continue the whoa. If they move, ARCH your way back to their shoulder and start again. We are always going to leave and return to the shoulder via an ARCH so we don't enter their space. They will return the favor and not encroach on ours later in the dance. When ACKing feel free to send some energy down the lead. That means give it a good wiggle that travels up to the halter. No shanking needed.

LESSON TWO : LET'S DANCE (BUT I GET TO LEAD) Review
#1. After the whoa, Get the end of the lead in your lead hand, step to the side to open up some space
#2. Arch your way to the the front. (stay out of NO MAN'S/NO HORSE LAND)
#3. Continue arching
#4. Out front with hands slightly up. Stay at the end of the lead. Don't crowd the dance floor. Reinforce WHOA
#5. Head back to the shoulder via an arch pattern
#6. Continue arching in
#7. Praise

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When the two of you finally enter the ring there is going to be a ton of commotion. Other horses, stewards, judges, people in the crowd making funny noises (we've all heard the halter "woooooooooo hoooooo"), photographers and all that comes with a show. All of that is going to be stressful for your friend, so Lesson #3 is designed to remind him/her to look to you for comfort and to remained focused on their dance partner and ignore what is going on around them.

Lesson #3: Wow, where did all these people come from?

Now that you are out front, and the whoa is becoming a solid part of the foundation, you are going to have to get them used to paying attention to you regardless of what is going on around them. Later we will talk about little tricks to get them "back on you" when they lose the bubble (trust me they will), but for now we are going to do a technique that is simple and re-affirms whoa, while making a few distractions for them.

Once you pause for a moment out front (like described in Lesson #2), I want you to now start walking down each side of the horse (in a wide arch). The horse should be encouraged to follow your movements with their heads and/or eyes but they are not to move their feet. Don't worry about feet placement at this point, but do employ the ACK if they move. Since things don't always go perfectly in the show ring, let's not worry about going back to the beginning if they move. Just ACK them, reset the whoa and continue (always pause quietly for a couple of second after resetting them so they have the opportunity to "think" about what they did wrong). From the front, walk down their right side (your left) and continue to give them a whoa. Go as far back as you like. I will actually walk all the way around them and let the lead cross over their back in order to add some more distraction. Eventually they obviously have to take their eyes off of me (their necks don't go THAT far) and they will move their heads off to the other side in order to pick me back up again. A little thing I do before I leave the front is actually say "with me" to the horse and they know to stay focused on me. This lesson is meant to simulate judges walking around them. Even when that happens they need to be WITH YOU. If your family wants to help, you might even have them woooo hooo in order to simulate what is going to happen during the class.

Again, once you have lessons 1 and 2 down pat, move on to this one. Unlike lessons 1 and 2, where I encourage you to ACK and start from the beginning, simply ACK them if they move their feet and reset them from where you are. That is what you are going to have to do in the class as well, so you might as well get some self training in. Don't worry about feet placement, we are getting close to that lesson.

We are still in a barn halter with no chain, whip or shank. Feel free to send "energy" down the lead if necessary. Remember to keep your hands "up" (not too high), along with repeated "whoas" during the walk around so that they visually see that they are not to move. If they follow you with their heads but don't budge their feet, you are THERE, GO GET 'EM.

Be patient . . .we are almost to the "STAND UP".  For planning purposes, in Lesson #7 we will work on having them "STACK UP", or as others call it, "ROCK BACK". The true dance will be covered in Lessons 4, 5 & 6. These first 3 Lessons are the VERY important foundation, on top of which, everything else is built. So let's get these 3 down PAT. Right now, I think we will be done with 8 lessons. After that, we will be in "re-fining" mode and will hopefully have a lot of discussion about the mechanics of the show ring and the presentation of your horse. Don't forget that these are only LESSONS. You earn your ribbons with SESSIONS not LESSONS.  Go into the sessions with a plan, keep them focused, keep them positive, and keep them short. No longer than 10 minutes or so for a session. You can certainly have multiple sessions per day (best way to do it in my opinion) but give them a break between sessions. 1/2 hour or more works best for me. I can spend that 1/2 hour working on the trot, grooming them, or simply letting them graze. Eventually they will learn that if they "get their work done" they are released for some R&R. When they get that, they will actually start getting AHEAD of you in the dance (they will know exactly what you want and what you are GOING to ask for . . .LOL. . .that is a whole different set of challenges.

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Lesson #4: Like AEROSMITH said....Walk this way

By now we are all able to get our partners to whoa on command and hold it while we walk around them and present distractions. That is the key to our foundation but the fact of the matter is, they are going to have to move during the class. You are going to have to maneuver them and place them for various reasons throughout the competition. This Lesson is going to teach them that it is NOT ok to move until we ask them too.

Ok, so you are able to get out front and have them freeze in place. They know to freeze when our hands come up (slightly) and their hear the whoa. If you have been working on this enough you should now be able to walk with your partner, lift your hands slightly, stop walking, and they will be dialed in enough to stop without a verbal command. The fact that your hands went up and you stopped walking should start to become enough. Try it. If they are not ready for that, please continue to say whoa as often as necessary. Whoa IS allowed in the show ring so don't be shy about using it.

Now, go through the previous steps of getting out front. Whoa, lift your hands, and arch your way out. Don't worry about feet placement, we are almost to that lesson. In order to place our horses for presentation (including their feet) we are are going to have to have them step "into place" from the whoa. So here is what I would like for you to work on. Once out front, lower your hands to about belt level, take some steps backwards and have them follow you. My horse is so dialed in with the whoa that I actually have to say "step" in order for him to come out of the whoa and follow me. If you partner is there as well, simply walk backwards, cluck, and say step. Once you take a couple of steps backwards, and they follow, raise your hands again and say whoa. They should see your hands go up, hear the whoa and freeze again. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT FOOT PLACEMENT AT THIS JUNCTURE.

Some important points that will be crucial later. Always maintain contact with their faces. Remember NO MAN/NO HORSE land? During this exercise, the distance between your hand and their nose should remain constant. You step, they step. You stop, they stop. They should only follow you at the same pace you are using. There should be little to no DIP in the lead so that you always "feel" their face and are retaining "contact" with them. Make sense? Also, watch your body posture with this. If you begin to "stoop" down to look at their legs they are going to follow suit and stoop down with you. Not a pretty picture in the halter ring when an Arab has its head down like a QH. Stand tall and they will follow suit.

Have you ever noticed that when you decide to "step" you typically begin with the same foot on most occasions? It will be the same for your partner so pay attention to which rear foot comes forward first when you ask them to follow you. That information will come in handy when it is time to place their feet.

My horse and I have moved up to a schooling halter with a nylon "chain". If you wish to do so, you may introduce your partner to the schooling halter, otherwise keep using the barn halter. Subsequent lessons are going to need the schooling halter. In addition, begin holding he whip in your non lead hand and keep it on your shoulder pointed behind you. Do NOT let your partner become de-sensitized to the whip. It needs to remain a source of curiosity for them.

So, your mission should you wish to accept it . . . . .Get out front in the manner previously described, retain contact with your partner's face, cluck, and have them step forward as you step backwards. Do not go more than three steps at any one time. 2-3 steps is all that should be necessary to "place" them once they are trained so start practicing like you are going to play. 2-3 steps, whoa, 2-3 steps, whoa, return to the shoulder via an arch and praise. Change it up on them so that they do not start to anticipate you. Once they anticipate you they will start "short striding" with their steps because they KNOW you are about to say whoa. So, sometimes make it one step, sometimes 2, etc. . . Mix it up. You want them stepping when you say so, and stopping when you say so, not when they want too.

Every horse is different, so start paying attention to which rear leg they lead with. Don't stoop to see it, just look down with your eyes while remaining tall. Find your horse's rhythm. When you say whoa, notice how many more steps they need to come to a stop. Do they immediately freeze, or do they take another 1/2 step or whole step. For my horse, if I say whoa when his right rear leg is about to strike the ground, he will finish one more left rear rotation and then bring his right rear forward one more time and freeze. Knowing that helps me set his feet for presentation. Figure out what your partner's habit is.

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Lesson #5: Like Madonna said.....Strike a pose, vogue.

Ok, now we have the whoa down and can actually have them move forward and whoa on command, thereby, keeping them out of NO MAN/NO HORSE land. Now we have to set their feet in a manner that is pleasing for the presentation. Have you ever asked yourself, why we have the horses stagger their rear legs during the standup? We Arabian enthusiasts love a level top line in a halter class and that is what the stagger gives us. It opens the hip and flattens the croup. Now, let me preface this lesson with an admission that I don't have a "cookie cutter" lesson for this one. It will depend on each individual horse and how they move. I can say this though. . . . .It does not matter which leg is "back" even though the left rear is the norm.

So, how are we going to get them to stagger their rear legs? Well, first let me say that we DO not walk into the pose. We STEP into it. Meaning. . . . .you have to get yourself to a point where you can get your partner into the stance within a step or two. walking, walking and walking to get into the stance during a show is not pretty. This is a dance, time to get elegant. Remember previously I asked you to pay attention to your horses habits? Which leg does it step with when you walk backwards? When I do it, it is a 3 beat process. I step backwards and give the horse a "step" and when the right rear leg is about to strike the ground I say "whoa" (beat one). Next the left rear comes forward and strikes the ground (beat two), and my hands go up. Beat three is when the right rear returns to the ground and my horse freezes. I sure hope that makes sense. Try this. . . .take your hands, put them out in front of you on a table (even with each other) and let's mimic the horses walk.

We say "step" and the right leg moves out. Beat one . . .Right when your right hand hit the table again you say whoa. Beat two . . .right hand leaves again and your left hand touches down. Beat three. . . right hand comes down again and is in front of the left hand. Your hands are staggered.

Once you have the rear feet set we have to do something with the front ones. You have a choice, and either way is fine. Some people "step" their horse's front legs off to the horse's right (toward the rail . . picture yourself in the ring). Stepping the fronts off to the right is done to put the horse in a cockeyed body position so it can't come out of the stance. It works great and I have used it, but I think that if your WHOA is down pat, then you can get away with just having them stretch forward and put their feet together. Again, your choice. Having them step off is going to take some practice if they are going to be able to do it without moving the rears. Before I attempt to describe how to get them to place the front feet, let's talk about equine reality.

If you say whoa, and your hands are up, and your horse has it down pat, it will freeze in place. It is not however, immune from pressure. What does a horse do with pressure? It yields to it. So, if you want your horse to step off to the side with its front feet, put it in the whoa (rear legs staggered), step to your left while gently pulling on the horses head. It will yield to the pressure with its front legs and step towards your hand (it's right). Do NOT say "step" during this evolution or it will actually STEP and you will lose the rear legs. Keep saying whoa, step to your left (one or two steps), and gently pull the horses head to your left and slightly down. It will put its feet under itself. Get it? If the horses head is moving that way, it will move its feet under its weight.

Once your horse steps off to the side you have to keep them there and return yourself to the original front of the horse (back to your right). Yes, you guessed it. . . the horse will actually be at an angle to you.

If you just want the horses legs to come forward a bit, do the same thing without stepping off to your left. .

Each horse is an individual and you are going to have to experiment with your partner to find what works for the two of you. REMEMBER, you are going to have to look at the feet now. . . DO NOT stoop to see them. The horse will read your body language and come down as well. Stay tall and look at the feet with your eyes not your head. I recommend you have someone video tape you from here on out as well. Your perspective (out front) is not going to give you a good sense of the horses "frame".

So, since this is a BY THE NUMBERS exercise. . . . . repeat steps 1, 2, 4 and add 5. You notice I skipped #3. . . That was for getting the horse used to other movement around them. You are now getting ready to present . . .work on #3 by itself whenever you wish, but as we are getting towards the stand up, the process will be, WHOA AT THE SHOULDER, ARCH TO THE FRONT, STEP BACKWARDS WITH THEM FOLLOWING, STEP INTO THE STAGGERED REAR LEG STANCE AND PLACE THE FRONT FEET.

I am including some pictures of the stance to show you where you need to be.

Go get 'em.


 

I would not really worry about the front legs right now. Just work on the timing of "stepping" into the back split. Also, from here on out. . . . . I do not recommend standing in front of the horse for anything except presentation. Our equine friends are creatures of habit and once they learn that seeing you out front is SHOW time they will begin to step right into the correct position. Ever heard of Stallions who can actually recognize the difference between a barn halter and a breeding halter? I have, and they know when they are going to work or not. The same will be true of your horse if you restrict being "out front" to the standup. While working on the rear split, just focus on the slightest of success. Do NOT worry about perfection. The size of the split is going to be up to you eventually. Look at magazine ads and identify the size of split and overall "frame" that appeals to you and is most likely appropriate for your horse, and then shoot for that. I am of the belief that a moderate split is the most appealing. I like the way the horse shown in the photographs does it. If I had a choice I would rather have a smaller split than a large one. Too large makes them look off balance to my eye and is not appealing. So, practice stepping into it and then PRAISE the dickens out of them when they even approach doing it correctly. If they freeze when you say WHOA and the left rear leg is further back than the right rear (regardless of split size), go give them a hug. They will quickly identify what it is you are looking for and you will soon find that when they see you out front, facing them, they will get right into it.

Again. . . Whoa at the shoulder, arch to the front, get them to "step" forward, and time your whoa to achieve a split out back. Still not necessary to have a whip or shanking. ACK will still work as will a barn halter. If you wish to move up to a schooling halter you can do that as well.

Getting front legs will not be tough if we wait a little while for that.

Ok, here is the one that most people like the best . . . . The Stack up. Before I get into it though, I want to talk about something that most, if not all of us, have done in our lifetime. Have you ever played "tag" with a dog? You know what I mean. . . you are on the carpet, the dog is playing keep away from you, you bend down, look at the dog out of the corner of your eye. You know how they respond to that . . . they spread their front legs, get real low and "prepare" to bolt. As you lean into them they perceive that the distance is closing and they tighten up in preparation of running away from you. Everyone remember that? We are going to use that principle to have our horses "Stack" up and present.

Secondly, have you ever seen a horse that backs away with its head down? It is obviously possible, but typically the way equine mechanics works is, they have to raise their heads to buck, back, and stop. Typically, before a horse backs it will raise its head. We are going to use that as well. So, here is where we begin presenting our partners. We are going to have to play with their minds a bit and use their nature against them but I assure you they will be fine.

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LESSON SIX : STACK 'EM LIKE A DOG

Now that you have a firm foundation (the whoa) and you are able to move them around and still get the whoa. Let's begin to stack them up. I recommend a schooling halter for this, but I can get my horses to do it with a barn halter as well so if that is all you have it is fine. Go ahead and take the whip with you this time and prepare to either shank (small ones) or wiggle the lead to send energy at them. We all know that horses yield to pressure. When we back away from them, and ask them to step, the pressure is in the lead and it forces them to yield and advance. The opposite will be true this time. The pressure is going to be coming towards them. We are going to use their reaction to that pressure to get THE LOOK.

Now that you are out front and are able to have them "step" into the stance we have to teach them to back out when asked. Remember the NO MANs/NO HORSE land, that space between your hand and their face? Well, you control that land and if you ask them to advance (like lesson #5) they are to advance and stop when ordered to do so. Lesson #6 is about getting them to retreat as you control the NO MANs/NO HORSE land. When you come forward, towards them, they are to retreat in order to stay out of that space.

I would now like you to have them step forward into the stance (Lesson 5) and pause for 3 or 4 seconds after they stop. After that short pause, I want you to raise both hands WAY up in the air. Pause, for like 1 second (enough for them to notice a pause), and then forcefully step towards them and tell them BACK!!! while pushing your lead hand towards them. Wiggle the lead to send energy towards them while you STEP towards them. I am actually talking about walking forcefully towards them and making them back away. They are NOT going to back away straight and that is fine. Most likely they will turn away from you. It does not matter as long as they retreat and keep out of NO MANs land. After they back away, I want you to pause, let them think about it and then have them advance and step into the stand up again. Then repeat. We are not really trying to scare them but we are intent on having them retreat when ordered to do so. Chase them as far back as you like, then reset and do it again. They need to be trained to walk forward when you retreat and walk backwards when you advance. You know you have it when you are able to push your hand towards them while stepping and they back away even without the need for a "wiggle".

Now while that was a forceful retreat, here is where you will have to tone things down in order to get the STACK and elevated neck/head. Try this ONLY after you have done the retreat work a couple of times. (I don't mean a couple of SESSIONS. I simply mean a couple of retreats so you will be trying this next step during the same session)

Your horse now knows that when you retreat they are to advance and when you advance they are to retreat. Here comes the STACK and it is really a mind game of sorts. From out front, raise your hands. You should notice that your horse will elevate in anticipation of being ordered to back away. Pause for a second, and here is where you have to be quiet and subtle.

Take a VEEERY slow step towards your horse without sending energy or saying "back". Make the step VERY slow and lean your body towards the horse. In addition, push your lead hand towards the horse while leaning in. Remember the dog that "prepares" to run away? Watch what your horse does during this. It is really the same principle. Your horse knows that right after you raise your hands they are going to be asked to back away. So, they raise up in preparation. Now they see you taking a step towards them but you have not said "back" yet so they "prepare" to yield. That preparation is the STACK. Your high hands are telling them whoa so they know not to move. Your body language is telling them that they are about to get the order to back away, but it NEVER comes. You are trying to take them RIGHT UP to the line of backing away without crossing it. Make sense? When you first get this STACK it is likely that your horse is going to move a front leg a bit. THAT IS OK!!! They are moving because they are not confident in what you want yet. When they STACK or LEAN backwards with their bodies, EVEN THE SLIGHTEST BIT, arch your way back to their shoulder and love on them. With practice they will eventually STACK back without moving any feet. EVERY horse is different in terms of how much pressure they require to STACK. Some horses need a lot, some do it just with my hand coming towards them, and others are right in the middle. You have to work on this to learn how much your horse needs.

Take no flack from them . . . If they don't STACK then order them back again while sending energy. With repetition you will find the groove.

In LESSON #7 we will talk about keeping the pressure on during the presentation (so they don’t lean their necks forward), but here is the thing. STACKING up is A LOT of work for them. Try flexing your muscles for 60 seconds and see how much work it is. STACKING is flexing and that is where we will get that elevated TIGHT look. So, for this lesson do not concern yourself with having them hold it. We are just training them to do it. Over the next few months, and with your conditioning program, they will get more and more fit for the STACK. Right now just look for small victories. Just a small STACK is a big step. Later you are going to lean in, so they STACK, then you are going to lean back so they lean forward, then lean in again for a bigger STACK, back and forth and back and forth until the two of you figure out YOUR dance and your presentation.

Many people think that they are not doing something wrong if their horse does not elevate to 10,000 feet. Listen, they are built the way they are built. Some horses can easily give you that tall, bold neck and head. Some come up about 3/4 and some come out of their shoulder so low that they can't even get 1/2 way up. That is ok, we are not going to force them to do something they are not built for. We are simply going to get the most out of their ability.

Now you are ready to dance.

A couple of more thoughts concerning LESSON #6. This technique is NOT going to get you that COMING OUT OF THEIR SKIN look that is achieved by Big Name Trainer's. In order for you to get that look you are going to have to get, how do I say this. . . . more forceful. More forceful techniques are not what this thread is about and while you might be at a disadvantage if you show against a "harder" trained horse you are not without advantage. After you present your horse you are going to be asked to walk away from the judges and then trot off. The HARD standup, that has become the norm in Main Ring Halter, is stressful enough that the horse gets "tight" and does not have freedom of movement with which to trot off with. You will not have that issue. Secondly, you are training a horse that will be under saddle someday. Having a "burned out" halter horse will present problems when performance training comes around. We are not here to burn them out, we are here to have fun with them. People show in halter for a number of reasons. . . fun, promoting a stallion, marketing a foal, etc. . . . I do not think that you need the HARD standup to accomplish any of those things. Now you can also accomplish fun, marketing and promotion without the blue ribbon or garland.

The card that is mandatory in AHFA has the judge scoring the overall horse on its movement,its type,its head and neck/shoulder, body and top line and legs. I really believe that the HARD standup is going to be detrimental to a horse's movement and cost them in the total score. It is my hope that that reality is going to usher in a new (or old) way of presenting the halter horse. A happy, elegant, proud, trotty Arab should be the result and that is exactly what you are training for.

Here is another tip. During every training session, your horse is likely to start locking its jaw due to stress. Every so often, during the session, put your finger into the side of its mouth and rub its gums to encourage chewing. A chewing horse is a relaxed horse, and a relaxed horse is a happier, easier to train horse.

Ok, by this lesson you are able to get a firm WHOA. You are able to move out front without them moving while keeping their focus squarely on YOU. And, you now have them STACKING UP/ROCKING BACK. Time to finish the picture. Again, I need you to remember that horses are all about body language. It is my hope that this final lesson clears up any confusion and the "dance" is clear.

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LESSON SEVEN : REACH, DON'T LEAN

Our keeping them STACKED UP AND BACK is all about not giving them the ability to "lean" forward and "flatten" out. The successful halter horse comes out high from the shoulder and is elevated during the stand up. Remember though, your horse IS WHAT IT IS and not all of them are capable of high elevation. Their ability to "GET UP THERE" is contingent on the way they are built. That being said, we are trying to get the MOST out of the individual.

So, you taught them that when you order them to back they are to back. Then you used that training against them by making them anticipate the backing command which caused them to STACK UP in preparation for moving out. Now we have to bring that beautiful neck out so they can be on grand display. Here is how we are going to do it.

You took a quiet step forward while pressing your hand towards them and they STACKED UP. I want you to now hold your ground with your lower body. Do not retreat so that their weight stays back. Remember to give them their head (by pushing forward with your hand) so that they can STACK UP. Now, without moving your lower body, lean yourself backwards and pull the lead with you while offering them the whip. Your lower body (remember body language) will keep their lower half (basically from the middle of the chest down) back, but your upper body language is going to invite them to reach for the whip.

We began all lessons at the end of the lead and I told you that that was going to provide you room to adjust as needed. When you STACK THEM up wrap some lead around your hand so that you keep contact with their face. You might even wind up 1/2 way up the lead at presentation. That is fine, but resist getting closer. Being RIGHT UP against their nose is not attractive. Keep the tension in the lead. When they STACK UP push your hand forward so that their head can retreat but keep the tension. When you lean back, pull your lead hand back as well so they have to reach, but make sure you keep the tension for contact.

Little trick. On the bottom of the whip is typically a stainless steel "button". Every time you release the horse, bend down and offer them the button all the way to their nose. Actually get low enough that they have to arch their necks to touch the button and praise them. During the class, you will be able to show them the button from a distance and it will cause them to arch their necks to touch it. It will just be out of reach but the picture is beautiful. It will aid in getting the ears as well. They will begin to identify the button with praise and release which will make them happy.

Once you get this down, here is a fun exercise. STACK them by applying pressure. Then lean back (from the hips, do not move your feet) and have them reach. Then, by ONLY using your upper body and hand, have them STACK back and forth. That is the dance we discussed initially. Starting to see it? Back and forth in a quiet, elegant manner.

Once you complete this lesson you are done with all the steps that I utilize. However, that does not mean that show preparation is done. Remember, Lessons teach, but Sessions win. From here on out I would like to discuss the realities of the halter ring. What is acceptable, when should it be done, best way to enter the ring, little tricks, etc......

Another recommendation. Once you have all the lessons DOWN PAT it is time to give the horse a break. Just go on walks, perhaps have a little session on ONE of the lessons (you can NEVER do too much whoa work), focus on grooming and conditioning, but let them go back to just being a horse. Once they learn this, it is LEARNED. About 30 days out from the show, you will pick it back up and hit it hard. If you have conditioned your horse and the grooming is immaculate, then you are just "tightening" things up at that point.

My body language (hands up and about to lean in) is telling the horse to prepare to back, hence STACK. While I have not yet asked for his neck he has elevated himself and is ready to reach when asked. While sounds are great, i.e. the "hiss", it can be tough to hear it over a ton of WHOOOOOPS coming out of the crowd. When I school my horse to STACK up, I lean in and push my hand towards him right before I send energy down the line. I make the push of my hand so pronounced that he can see it. Now, he will actually rock back and forth just with my hand movement because he knows that the order to back follows the hand movement. I can actually "push" him into a stack with my lead hand. Notice that I have "contact" with his face at all times. When I push he rocks back, when I lightly pull he reaches forward. My lower body is a barrier to his lower body so that he stays back. A visual cue can be seen over a cheering crowd or other distractions. Also note, no whip. We are simply dancing. Just my two cents.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS (According to the Big Name Trainers)

Now that the AMMY ARMY is loading their weapons (trained halter horses) I thought I might drop some TIPS for the upcoming show season. These are tips that I have either picked up from a number of Big Name Trainers or things I figured out myself. In keeping with the theme that this endeavor is about "steps" I thought I might start at the beginning and have the tips progress from preparation through victory pictures.

TIP 1 - CHAMPIONSHIPS ARE WON AT HOME NOT ON THE SHOWGROUNDS.


We have already established that Lessons teach but Sessions win. Championships are won at home and are accomplished through dedication and a lot of hard work. Each session is crucial, which is why we always end on a positive note. Our horses are very interested in doing the right thing and pleasing us. It is that positive finish ON EVERY SESSION that stays with them. NEVER quit without a victory no matter how slight.

A horse that is trained to STAND UP for the judges and fans is only one part of a total package. I believe that there are 4 ingredients to success in the halter ring. QUALITY, CONDITIONING, GROOMING, and TRAINING. You notice how training was listed last? If you don't have the first three ingredients you are going to face challenges. Now obviously there is nothing you can do about the QUALITY of an individual (you are going to have to breed for quality or buy another quality individual) however, the next two ingredients can help you overcome weaknesses in other areas. No horse is perfect, not even the champion, but most times, conditioning, grooming and training will get you over any quality weaknesses. How many of you have been to a show and heard who the winner was and said to yourself "what in the world? That horse has a crooked leg. . . or (fill in the blank)" It is likely that the winning horse, complete with faults, was immaculately conditioned, groomed and trained. Since we can't do anything about QUALITY, let's move on to CONDITIONING.

CONDITIONING. You horse MUST be in shape for the competition. Not only for eye appeal but for standing up as long as it will have to during the class. I like to keep conditioning simple in terms of "what it looks like". Arabian horses are supposed to be smooth, with rounded parts. No sharp angles (hips, etc). So here is my simple check list. Feel ribs, don't SEE them and round off the back end. You might notice that I made no mention of short back, straight legs, long neck, etc. . . . Those are quality issues. So for conditioning. . . . pay very close attention to your horses diet . . . not too much, not too little (watch the ribs).

Workouts should be tailored for the individual. Some horses might need 5-6 days a week, while others might only need 3-4 days per week. It depends on the individual and you are going to have to figure that out. If you work your horse 6 days a week and its ribs are showing or its hip is angular because he/she burned off so much fat, you defeated the purposes. Conversely, if you work your horse 3 days a week and it has a big belly, you did not prepare well either. Halter horses are athletes and athletes must do road work. Figure out how many days a week your horse must work and then pick the mode of exercise you prefer. Treadmill, ponying, lunging, swimming or a combination of these are all great but are contingent on your circumstances (acreage, equipment, etc). Different modes have different benefits but all are great as long as our athletes break the appropriate level of sweat. Utilize a neck sweat while working and always protect the legs (wraps, boots). Invest in a throat latch wrap as well and ALWAYS have it on the horse when not working. When your horse is not being ridden or worked, it is wearing the throat latch wrap to encourage sweat and a clean throat latch.

GROOMING. This is an EVERY DAY event. Nothing beats good old fashion elbow grease to produce a shimmering coat. Yes, you will spray some sheen at the show but even that will not overcome a terrible coat. So, groom every day (even if it is just curry for a few minutes), supplement their diet as desired, and LEAVE THE MANE AND TAIL ALONE. Wrap up the tail to protect it but don't brush it. Feel free to "finger" brush the mane but don't apply a brush to it. People often ask how I get Prize's mane, tail, and forelock so long and full. Ok, here comes the Delgado secret . . . . I LEAVE THEM ALONE. Do not wash your horse often either. You will have a clean horse but you will lose the valuable oils that the coat needs.

Clipping . . VERY IMPORTANT part of your presentation. Clipping also loses you the valuable oils, so don't clip at the show grounds and don't clip the day before the show. Of course, you will do some "touch up" work on the show grounds, but the big clip job should be done at home at least a week before the show and sometimes two. If you start clipping a week to 10 days out, you will not have to complete the job in one evening. You can clip over a 3 or 4 day period which is much easier on you and your horse. After clipping you will need to get those oils back into the hair. Grooming will encourage the oils but here is a tip. . . . right after you finish your clipping, drench your entire horse in OLIVE OIL or MAYONAISSE. Leave it on for a few minutes and then rinse the bulk of it off. DO NOT WASH it off. You will have to blanket and put slickers on after this to keep him/her clean for the show.

TRAINING....All ready covered.

TIP 1A - THE EYES HAVE IT

One more tip that I neglected to provide during the clipping discussion. It is advisable to apply Petroleum Jelly above the eyes and on the muzzle on a daily basis. The Jelly retards hair growth and gives you a much smoother, closer look than shaving alone. Again, certainly not a requirement but a good tip that the Big Name Trainers utilize against you.

You would need to wipe it off prior to any workouts or turnouts and then reapply a thin layer prior to putting them up for the night. Part of the check list: Throat latch sweat, slicker, sheet, blanket, hood, petroleum jelly.

Remember, nothing is mandatory. Just providing some "tricks" of the trade that will be employed against the Ammy Army so that you have the option if you so desire. The devil is in the details.

TIP 2 - DESIGN YOUR STYLE and HAVE A PLAN


If you asked 10 people how you should show your horse you will get 10 answers and will be no closer to doing it the right way. The RIGHT way is YOUR way. When you are at the shows, make sure you pay attention to the halter classes that are going off before you show and on the days that you don't show. Forget the pretty horses for a moment and watch how the handlers (both pro and ammy) are presenting their horses. See what you like and dislike. Break it into "parts" and incorporate the parts you like into YOUR presentation. Do you want to just walk in and then trot down the rail? Do you want to enter at the trot and then do a BIG circle for the judges? Do you want to DANCE around in front of your horse when you present (UGH!!!)? Do you want to stay quiet and elegant when you stand him/her up (WOO HOO!)? What should you wear (what colors will compliment your horse and make you look like a stunning TEAM)? Those are the questions you need to be asking yourself when you are STUDYING the classes you are not involved in. Watch those classes and forget the pretty horses for a moment so you may start working on your halter horsemanship and presentation plan.

TIP 3 - BE FEARLESS!!!!

OK, I am going to let the cat out of the bag concerning the halter ring. Whether it is the open or AOTH, here is the secret no one wants you to know. . . . . . . . . You are going to be required to run into an arena with some dirt in it, walk in a circle, stand up a horse you love very much, and wait for the opinion of three people. The very worst thing that can happen to you is that you are invited to leave the dirt arena without a ribbon. . . . OH NO, SAY IT AIN'T SO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seriously folks, it is some dirt, some other horses, some other handlers, and a couple of judges . . . . . no firearms, no weapons, no bully’s, no punching, hitting, kicking, etc. . . . . . While I understand a bit of "nerves" because you have put a lot of work into getting ready and you wish to do well, you are really only getting the opinion of three people on THAT day, nothing more and nothing less. Don't put so much stock into the opinion of others that you are unable to enjoy the class. Work hard, do you best, and have fun. There are very few absolutes in this world but I will give you one here. . . . YOU WILL ABSOLUTELY SURVIVE THE SCARY WORLD OF DIRT ARENAS.

BE FEARLESS (You have a whole Army behind you)

TIP 4 - HUG THE WALL TO TAKE AWAY THE MYSTERY

In Tip 2 I recommended that you study other handlers in order to design your own style of presenting your horse. It is my intention to provide some tips that you may consider from entry through presentation. Tip 4 is about one of the most important aspects of the class. The ENTRY. You only get one chance to make a first impression and I promise you that the judge's first impression of you and your horse goes down on their note pads. So, as you design your style you are going to have to decide on how you are going to enter. Are you going in and left and doing a big circle? Are you going straight in and then to the right and down the rail? Are you immediately going to the right and down the rail? There is NO right answer to those questions and your preference is the only thing you need to concern yourself with. BE SURE to follow the rules for where you are showing, as different organizations have different rules.

Here is Tip 4. . . . . . . . As we all know, horses do NOT like surprises and we have all seen their reaction to being "caught off guard". In order to allow them the freedom of confidence so that they can put on that SHOW we all love, you have to make sure that the entrance does not come as a surprise to them. Tip 4 is my recommendation that you hug the OPPOSITE side of the gate from the direction you wish to go. So, if you are going to go to the LEFT and do a big circle before you reverse and go down the rail, you need to hug the RIGHT side of the entry gate. By doing this, you will open the field of vision for both you and your horse and your target will be laid out in front of you. If you were going to go left and were to hug the left side of the gate, your target is "around" a blind corner and that will concern your horse enough that they will not be free to GO FOR IT, before they get comfortable. Make sense? If you are going to go RIGHT, then hug the LEFT side for the same reason. (AHFA rules have the horses enter clockwise, or to the LEFT. This places the horse in front of the judge as they enter and not the handler.)

So, decide what entry you wish to make, and hug the opposite side of the gate in order to take away the mystery and allow you and your horse the confidence to attack the ring. .

Next tips will find us IN THE RING and we will discuss the "timing" of things, and not only the "dos" and "don'ts" but the "when" and "whys".

TIP 5 - KNOW WHERE THE JUDGE'S EYES ARE

Once you are in the ring you are going to be very excited and possibly nervous. Do not allow that to drive you into "tunnel vision" where you don't know what is going on around you. Take a deep breath, relax, and enjoy the moment. Make sure you watch the horses that show before you. Start to see what the judges' "rhythm" is. Knowing all of this is going to make it easier on you when you are "on deck" and are to show at the rail before going to center ring. Standing your horse up too early is going to take it out of him/her, standing them up to late is going to cost you an opportunity to make a great first impression. Here is an example. . . . . . You are on deck, the horse in front of you is at center ring. . . . it shows and is trotting off. . . . . . .How long do the judges watch it trot off? When are they going to take their eyes off of him and look at you? Figure that out while others are showing.

Also, when you are about to be "on deck", it is going to be necessary to wake your partner up. The two of you have been standing around for some time and they are now looking at the crowd, the other horses, etc. . . that is all good, but now you are about to show. Again, know where the judges' eyes are. It is going to take a little shank and back up to wake them up. When the judges are not looking. . . flip the lead at the horse and have them back up a step or two. Nothing big and nothing over the top. Just a wake up. If you start all of your sessions at home in the same manner (small shank and back up) they quickly learn that that means it is stand-up time and it will pay dividends in the ring.

It is my intention to provide tips from the beginning to the end. . . that is why the first tips were at home, they progressed to the grounds, the entrance, and now the rail. Next stop, CENTER RING!!!!

TIP 6 - JUDGE....THIS IS THE ONE YOU HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR

There is a reason that most winners lists contain the recognizable names of several big name trainers.  They have spent years building a reputation of showing the finest Arabs in the world. They are going to get a third, fourth, look because judges have come to expect that they will be handling a horse worth paying attention too. I don't begrudge the Big Name Trainer's that status and neither should you. They have earned it. However, you should not be dazzled by it either. When you are in the ring you have to be "IN IT TO WIN IT" and exude the self confidence in yourself and your horse that indicates that you belong.

So, after you finish showing on the rail it is time to head to middle ring. You are not in a race so relax. After you present your horse on the rail, the steward (who is standing behind you) is going to whisper into your ear, "ok, the judges are ready for you". Now, do NOT be in a hurry to get out there. Release your horse from the pose, arch your way back to his/her shoulder, give them a pat of praise, fix their forelock, stick a finger into their mouth to encourage chewing, etc . . . . do not rush. When you are ready, start walking your horse to middle ring.

Here is the tip. . . . typically the judges will be in some form of a straight line in front of you (facing you as you approach). Lead your horse, calmly, DIRECTLY at the judge in the middle. Now, look at that judge DIRECTLY in the eye as you approach and make sure you have a smile on your face. Because they will be giving the Big Name Trainer's multiple looks, you are going to have to give them a reason to pay attention to you. Confidence will win the day. Look them DEAD In the eye and as you approach say "good morning/afternoon". Make sure your body language exudes the confidence that says. . . "Judge, THIS is the horse you have been waiting your whole life for". Stop your horse in the same direction that you approached the judges (do not turn). They will then ask you to "present your horse". . . Say "thank you" and then ARCH your way out to the front after giving your horse another "whoa" and a little reminding "bump". Once you arch your way out front, continue along the arch and have your horse turn with you until they are now PERPINDICULAR to the direction you walked out. You should be facing the out gate now. Your horse will like being able to see the out gate will sometimes give you the ears and attention you are seeking. They know the way out and are "interested" in the gate.

Now, the stand up in the middle. . . . It is not ONE standup. It is multiple stand ups. Arch out to the front, continue arching until your horse turns with you, step into the split and PRESENT hard. When the judges walk to the rear of your horse, release him/her. When the judges start coming back around, step into a NEW split and PRESENT hard. Making it a series of "mini" stand-ups will be easier for your horse and will always have a fresh look. There is NO timing of your presentation. . . . it is not a race (within reason). . . do not present until you have your horse in the stance you want but if you can't get it in a reasonable time, do the best with what you have. It is a balancing act . . . not too fast but not too slow either. . . . Sometimes a good judge will notice when you are in a hurry and will notice that your presentation is not the most flattering for your horse. . . in that case they will ask "do you really want to present your horse like that?". Take it as a gift and reset your horse. . . The judge REALLY does want you to do your best and will give you time to achieve it.

The longer look you get the better. . . it means that you are in the running. . . however, just because you get a short look does not mean all is lost. It can mean one of two things. . . the judges hate your horse and have seen enough, or the judges LOVE your horse and have seen enough. . . . you will know when the cards are read.

When the judges have finished looking at your stand up, they are going to say to you. . . "please walk away from us for a couple of steps and then pick up the trot". Typically they will point the direction to go, but it is generally towards the out gate in a straight line and then you will turn to your left and continue the trot in a counter clockwise direction. . . When they ask you to trot away say "thanks for the opportunity" and proceed. Keep your eye on them when you turn and do not stop trotting until they look away and begin judging the next horse who is now on the rail.

Next we will get into what happens after all horses have been judged in the middle.